Fish Scales

The stitch pattern is Fishtail Lace, from the 365 stitch patterns calendar, and the yarn has a strand of glittery thread woven through it, so it's fish scales. I made my socks with 72 stitches, but my ankles are thick. The pattern is written for normal sized ankles. I wear a size 8.5" shoe, and I had about 10" of yarn left over, so you should be able to make a pair of 64 stitch socks up to about a women's size 11 shoe with 460 yds. of sock weight yarn.

Fish Scales

Knitted on one 12" Circular Needle

Sized to fit Women's Medium (size 8 feet)
Gauge: 8 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette.

Supplies Needed:

Size 2.5 MM Addi Turbo(r) Circular needle (U.S. size 1 (1.5) (or the size needed to achieve gauge)

Size 2.5 mm or 2.25 mm (1 U.S.) double point needles, which you will need for the heel and the toes, set of 5.

I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

100 grams of Sisu Glitter sock yarn. This pattern will also look nice in solid, semi solid or self striping yarns.

2 small circular markers

Abbreviations:

CO = Cast on
K = Knit
KW = knit wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to knit it
P = Purl
PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knitted (just like binding off)
PW = purl wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to purl it
SL = Slip
SSK = slip a st PW to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then move them back to the left needle knit those two together
TOG = together (as in K2TOG: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch)
YO = Bring the yarn to the front of the work as if you were going to purl. Instead, bring the yarn back over the needle and knit the next stitch. This creates a hole, and a new stitch, which must be accounted for with an accompanying decrease
DD = Double Decrease (K1, SL1, K2 TOG, PSSO)

Sock Pattern
CO 64 sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and knit in 2 X 2 rib for 1 1/2 to 2 inches. *Knit 2, Purl 2*, repeat between *'s around.

Fishtail Lace Pattern Stitch (8 stitch repeat)

Multiple of 8 stitches

Round 1: *YO, K2, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K2, YO, K1* repeat between *’s to end

Rounds 2, 4 & 6: Knit

Round 3: K2, *YO, K1, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K1, YO, K3* repeat between *’s to last 7 stitches, end YO, K1, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K1, YO, K2

Round 5: K3, *YO, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K5* repeat between *’s to last 6 stitches, end YO, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K3

Repeat these 6 rounds for pattern.

Place a marker at the join. The striping pattern of most yarns should look nice at this gauge. Knit around in the fishtail lace pattern stitch until the sock tube measures 6-7 inches long (slightly stretched), ending with round 5 of the lace pattern.

Remove marker until the heel is finished. Change to double pointed needles (or keep using two circulars or one long magic loop circular), keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle (or another holder). I knit the heel on double point needles. Knit across the first 32 stitches. This is the first row of the heel.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped stitch edge (EOP)

Row 1: *slip 1, K1,* repeat between *'s to end

Row 2: slip 1, P to end

Row 3: slip 1, K1, *k1, slip 1,* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end K2 (Don’t end with a slipped stitch.) This alternates the slipped stitches, creating the EOP pattern. I originally discovered (unvented) this variation when I made a mistake doing the heel stitch and liked what I created. Later on I learned that it had a name. Many patterns will have you slip two stitches at the start of row 3, then K1, SL1, but for stability I prefer to have two knit stitches in a row instead of two slipped stitches.

Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Knit in this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to middle of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement. You can also knit until the heel flap is square, as many patterns state, but with the eye of partridge stitch drawing in the heel I prefer to use an actual measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to Dave Mackay's "heels by number" which was the inspiration for these.

(Note: SSK = slip a st PW* to right needle, slip a second st KW* to right needle, then knit those two together)

Row 1: slip 1, knit 18, ssk, k 1, turn

Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn

Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. I try to keep knitting the heel turn in the EOP stitch, but it's not essential. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel until you reach the first pick up edge.

Using a new double point needle, pick up & knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). If there is a little gap where the heel meets the instep stitches, pick up a strand and twist it, then knit it to close the hole. If you have to, pick up another loose area and repeat the process. Place the first marker here. Knit across the 32 instep stitches (still waiting patiently on the circular needle holder) , place the second marker. This will be round 6 of the fishtail lace stitch (plain knit), which you didn't knit earlier. Pick up & knit stitches on the opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 88-96 stitches on the needle at this point. It is not critical to have an exact number of stitches, as you will continue to decrease the extra stitches away until you return to the same number that you started with.

NOTE: I've recently rediscovered a great band heel which mitigates the wider heel stripes and all decrease rounds at this great site. I knit my last two pairs using this heel and it is very nice. I still use the EOP slip stitch, which means I have to add a few rows to the heel flap before decreasing. Then I have a few decrease rounds after picking up the gusset stitches. Thanks to Nan for this great pattern and tutorial, and to Nancy Bush for popularizing the band heel.

Decrease Rounds:

Three stitches from the first marker, K2 TOG, K 1. Slip marker, and knit across the 32 stitch instep in the fishtail lace pattern to the second marker, slip it, K 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 sts remain on the needle, 32 on the instep and 32 on the foot. Knit plain, without decreasing, and keeping the instep stitches in the lace pattern and the foot stitches in stockinette, until the foot is about 7.25" long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length). .

Wedge toe:

Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.

Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch.

Change to double pointed needles again when you have too few stitches to go around the circular needle easily. Repeat these two rounds until 16 sts remain. Divide the 16 sts between 2 needles at the markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them together (or do a 3-needle bind off like I do).

Now knit the second sock!

Copyright 2007 Margie Dougherty

All rights reserved. You may print this pattern and share it with others, providing this notice remains attached.

Basic Sock Pattern on 12" Circular Needle

Sized to fit Women's Medium (size 8 feet) Men's Medium or Women's Large in ( )

Gauge: 8.5 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette.

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Size 2.5 MM Addi Turbo(r) Circular needle (U.S. size 1.5)

Size 2.5 mm or 2.25 mm (1 U.S.) double point needles, which you will need for the heel and the toes, set of 5.

I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

100 grams of Regia Ringel or Mini Ringel or other fingering weight (sock) yarn such as Opal, Meilenweit, Lang Jawoll or Austermann Step.

Add one 50 gram skein for larger size or a longer length. This can be a contrast solid color, used for heels and toes. The stripe pattern will get wider on the heel and some people prefer the solid color heel and toe for this reason.

NOTE: I've recently rediscovered a great band heel which eliminates the long stripes at this great site. I knit my last two pair using this heel and it is very nice. I still use the EOP slip stitch, which means I have to add a few rows to the heel flap before decreasing. Then I have a few decrease rounds after picking up the gusset stitches. Thanks to Nan for this great pattern and tutorial, and to Nancy Bush for the band heel.

2 small circular markers, in different colors. I like red and green: red for stop decreasing; green for start decreasing.

CO 64 (72) sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and K2, P2 for 2"

Place a marker at join. The striping pattern of the yarn should look nice for both sizes at this gauge. Knit around until sock tube measures 7 (8) inches long.

Remove marker until heel is finished. Change to double pointed needles, keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle. Change to solid color yarn if you are using it. Knit the heel on double points over the first 32 (36) sts.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped st edge

Row 1: *slip 1 KW*, k1,* repeat between *'s to end

Row 2: slip 1, p to end

Row 3: slip 1 KW, *k2, slip 1,* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end k2 (Don’t end with a slipped stitch.)

Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Knit this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 (2 3/4 - 3) inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to top of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to David Mackay's "heels by number" which was the inspiration for these.

(Note: SSK = slip a st PW* to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then knit those two together)

Row 1: slip 1, knit 16 (18), ssk, k 1, turn

Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn

Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel in Eye of Partridge pattern until you reach the pick up edge.

Change back to variegated yarn at this point, if you are using it. Using a new double point needle, pick up & knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). Place first marker here. Knit across the instep stitches which were not part of the heel, place second marker. Pick up & knit stitches on opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 96-104 stitches on the needle at this point.

Decrease Round:

Three stitches from first marker, k 2 tog, k 1. Knit across instep to second marker, slip it, k 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 (72) sts remain on the needle. Knit plain until the foot is about 7.25" (8") long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length). Change to double pointed needles again, and solid color yarn if you are using it.

Wedge toe:

Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.

Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch.

Repeat these two rounds until 16 (18) sts rem. Divide the 16 (18) sts between 2 needles at markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them tog or do a 3-needle bind off.

Now knit the second sock!

*KW=knit wise

Copyright 2001 Margie Dougherty

All rights reserved.

Honeycomb Slip Stitch Sock Pattern

A (nearly new) sock pattern in honor of what would have been my grandmother's 106th birthday on 3/5/01. She taught me to sew and made my Barbie a real mink stole (which I still have) from a scrap of someone's mink coat, brown satin and a rhinestone button. Direct PDF link for a printable version

I moved this pattern from my old website so it would be more available. I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

The inspiration for these socks came from Knitter's Magazine, Spring 2001. A baby sweater and hat in pastel "Look at Me" yarn was featured using this slip stitch pattern. Another socknitter posted a picture of her sock in progress using the rainbow sock yarn and this stitch pattern, and I took it from there. I'm sorry I can't remember her name to give her credit for the inspiration. She did give me her blessing to share this pattern. I've also made a hat using the same idea and worsted weight yarn, which my DD wears snowboarding.

This pattern could also be knitted using leftover balls of sock yarn for the main color and a solid color as the contrast. You would then need one skein of solid color yarn and lots of leftovers. I would divide my leftovers into two equal size balls (or use different leftover yarn on each sock to make true Monstersocken.)

Materials:
CC:1 ball, 50 grm/200 yds Variegated Sock Weight Yarn
Lorna's Laces Socknitter's Rainbow was used for these socks. You won't need the whole skein for the pair of socks, especially if you knit the plain foot. I'd estimate that I used the amount of yarn left over from knitting another pair.
MC:2 balls, 50 grm/200 yds Dark Sock Yarn (High Contrast) I used Special Blauband in a navy with primary color bits twisted in.

Size 2.5 mm ADDI Turbo circular needle (or size needed to achieve gauge)
Size 2.25 mm (1 US) double point needles, which you will need for turning the heel and the toes.

Note: The picture shows the foot knitted with a slip stitch stripe pattern, but the pattern is written with a plain foot. I used Karen (Wren) Hoyle's pattern for garter bar slip stitch for the foot in this sock, but I changed the purl stitches to knits so the sock felt smoother around the foot. I would recommend you knit a plain foot, because of the problems encountered with the slip stitch pattern when you decrease. Another option would be to use the band heel, or a short row heel.

Because the slip stitch pattern does not have any stretch, and I cast on my normal number of stitches, these socks did not fit me. Remember to swatch! I gave these socks to my sister in law for her 50th birthday, and she gets many compliments whenever she wears them.

SIZE: Woman's Medium Women's Large/Man's Medium in ( )
GAUGE: 8 sts = 1" worked in pattern stitch on size 2.5mm needles

HONEYCOMB SLIP STITCH PATTERN
Repeat of 8 stitches
Round 1, CC Knit around
Round 2, CC Purl around**
Round 3, using MC *Knit 6, slip 2 KW*, repeat between *'s
Round 4, 5, 6 Repeat Row 3
Round 7 repeat Row 1
Round 8 repeat Row 2**
Round 9 using MC K2, *SL2, K 6*, repeat between *'s, end K4
Rounds 10, 11, 12 Repeat Row 9
Repeat Rounds 1-12 for pattern
**If you like, change rounds 2 & 8 from purl to knit to get a smooth texture.

Knitting the Sock
Using MC, CO 64 (72) sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and K2, P2 for 1-2". Place a marker at join. Knit around in slip stitch pattern, slipping marker every round, until sock tube measures 7 inches long, ending with Row 6 or 12 of pattern. Remove marker until heel is finished.

Heel:
Change to double pointed needles, keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle. Drop CC and knit heel flap and foot with MC. Knit the heel on double point needles over the first 32 (36) sts.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped st edge
Row 1: *slip 1 KW*, k1,* repeat between *'s to end
Row 2: slip 1, p to end
Row 3: slip 1 KW*, k2, *slip 1, K1* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end k2 (don't end with a slip stitch)
Row 4: repeat Row 2.
Knit this four row heel pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 (2 3/4 - 3) inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the foot of the intended recipient from floor to top of ankle bone (inside ankle) to determine the correct measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel)
Thanks to David Mackay's Heels by Number which was the inspiration for these. This invaluable chart can now be found on the socknitter's site.
(Note: SSK = slip a stitch KW* to right needle, slip a second stitch KW to right needle, then knit those two together)
Row 1: slip 1, knit 16 (18), ssk, k 1, turn
Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel using the Eye of Partridge pattern until you reach the pick up edge. Using a new double point needle, pick up and knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). Place first marker here. Knit across the instep stitches which were not part of the heel, place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches on opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 96-104 stitches on the needle at this point.

Decrease (Gusset) Rounds: Three stitches from first marker, k 2 tog, k 1. Slip marker. Knit across instep to second marker, slip it, k 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle by knitting off of the double pointed needles onto the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two rounds, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat the decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 (72) sts remain on the needle. Knit plain until the foot is about 7.25" (8") long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length).

Wedge toe: Change to double pointed needles.
Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.
Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch. Repeat these two rounds until 16 (18) sts rem. Divide the 16 (18) sts between 2 needles at markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them together or do a 3-needle bind off.

Now knit the second sock!

copyright 2002 Margie D
All rights reserved
You may print and make copies of this pattern to share as long as the entire copyright notice remains intact. Please don’t post it to any website or email list without my permission.